Aneesa Sheikh
Aneesa in hand-worked gold couture.

Couture

Gold Thread, Old Stone: Aneesa's Heritage Couture Editorial Is a Love Letter to South Asian Craft

In her heritage couture editorial, Aneesa Sheikh poses in hand-worked gold, crimson and silver against centuries-old stone: 3 looks, from a gold-embellished mermaid gown and a crimson bridal-couture look by AAVVA of Dubai to a silver lehenga by Gavin Miguel of Mumbai. The shoot puts South Asian craft in the same sentence as any Western couture house.

Some fashion photographs sell a dress. Others make an argument. In her heritage couture editorial, Aneesa Sheikh does the second — posing in hand-worked gold, crimson and silver couture against centuries-old stone, and putting South Asian craftsmanship exactly where she believes it belongs: in the same sentence as any Western couture house.

The images are striking even by editorial standards. A gold-embellished mermaid gown by AAVVA, the Dubai atelier, its train arranged across weathered steps. A crimson bridal-couture look by the same house, veil and all, photographed with the patience its embroidery deserves. A silver hand-worked lehenga by Gavin Miguel of Mumbai, skirt spread wide against ancient masonry, reading like architecture meeting architecture.

For Aneesa — the Punjabi American singer and guitarist who has walked the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival and appeared in Vogue Philippines — the shoot is more than a portfolio entry. It is a statement about range. Here is a performer who is equally at home in an ivory couture moment on the Croisette and in a hand-embroidered lehenga — and who treats both with the same seriousness.

The same instinct runs through her music, and there the story is more specific. Her most-played song began on a drive with her Punjabi friends, who told her that every western-born girl would go crazy if she released something in both languages with a rap section; she went to the studio that same day and the lyrics flowed. Released under the title "Down," it is the record she points people to first. "Established artists in India and Bollywood told me I wouldn't be able to sing in Hindi and that I should stick to American English and modeling in India," she says. "Despite having an accent, I'm really proud that the song incorporates both and resonates with the desi diasporic audience."

The timing lands well. Global fashion is in a long-overdue moment of crediting South Asian ateliers as couture houses in their own right — their hand-embroidery techniques, their bridal traditions, their sense of occasion. Editorials like this one do the quiet work of that recognition: not a costume, not a theme, but couture photographed as couture.

There is also a personal throughline. Aneesa's first career, as a U.S. Figure Skating triple gold medalist and three-time Michigan State Champion, was spent in garments engineered for movement and spectacle — competition dress is couture under athletic constraint. She wears the heaviest train the way she skated: aware of every line she makes, out to the balcony seats.

Her most recent single is called "Iconic." On the evidence of these frames, the title is not an aspiration. It is a caption.

aneesaofficial.com · @aneesasheikhofficial

Questions

Which designers appear in the editorial?

AAVVA, the Dubai atelier (a gold-embellished mermaid gown and a crimson bridal-couture look with veil) and Gavin Miguel of Mumbai (a silver hand-worked lehenga).

What is the editorial about?

It is a statement about range: putting South Asian craftsmanship exactly where she believes it belongs, in the same sentence as any Western couture house.

What is Aneesa Sheikh’s most-played song?

“Down,” the record she points people to first.

How did “Down” start?

On a drive with her Punjabi friends, who told her that every western-born girl would go crazy if she released something in both languages with a rap section. She went to the studio that same day and the lyrics flowed.

What did established artists in India and Bollywood tell her?

That she wouldn’t be able to sing in Hindi and should stick to American English and modeling in India. “Despite having an accent, I’m really proud that the song incorporates both and resonates with the desi diasporic audience,” she says.

How does figure skating connect to couture?

Competition dress is couture under athletic constraint: garments engineered for movement and spectacle. She wears the heaviest train the way she skated, aware of every line she makes.